Fellow Traveler

Wastebooks; Happy New Year

2011-01-08T10:45:00.001-08:00

Hey Everyone! Happy new year.

I spent about 5 days last week on an organic mini-farm about 2 hours outside of Buenos Aires, near the town of Canuelas. My girlfriend Chris has been volunteering on the farm for over a month now, and so I partly volunteered with her, partly celebrated the new year with the friends and family of the owners (Matias, Mariana and Juan = great people), and partly monopolized the lone hammock with neither remorse nor shame. Some might have referred to me as a green tyrant. As far as celebrations go, it all felt very familiar.

So, during these 'hammock sessions,' amongst other things (like being harassed by small Argentines, i.e. children) I went through my stack of 'wastebooks' from 2010. This term was forced upon me by my good friend Andrew "el tigre" Meeks, and refers to the small notebooks I always carry in my back right pocket. I jot down names, places, movies, books, ideas bright both mine and other, funny thoughts, spanish words I don't know, questions, et al. eh. My sister sometimes asks what I write down, and in her honor I thought it might be interesting to share some entries from 2010: (in quotes are unabridged entries)

Kindness often goes unnoticed, whereas unkindness is often loud and memorable. This unfortunately creates the illusion of less kindness in the world. (This thought dawned on me on a bus in Bolivia as a way of coping with the non-courteous man behind me who had taken of his shoes...and they stank!)
"how will my life change if I walk slower?"
Living uncritically is to commit to an absolute meaning, i.e. a truth. I don't think truth in meaning exists. Therefore, my Dad should try beer again.
When talking about lucid dreaming, I should casually tell people that during my lucid dreams I typically give haircuts to middle aged prison inmates (lucid dreaming refers to knowing you are in a dream and controlling it)
"Is the difference between art and science the presumption of subjectivity?"
I should start sentences with "My preferred interpretation...."
"The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance....it is the illusion of knowledge" -Stephen Hawking
Soccer is not futbol. Translation is impossible. (a truth claim!)

Although I don't believe translation is possible, I also noted some interesting insights discovered by comparing english-spanish translations. My favorite example is with the word Protestante, which of course means 'Protestant.' Somehow I never realized it stems from "protest" and only when it translated to me as "protester" in Spanish did it hit me. Ah, right...protest and then reform, got it. Learning another language is illuminating in so many ways.

Alright, that's it. As you can see I reflect a lot on language, knowledge and philosophy in general. "Great Matt that's great." But maybe this is not surprising. This theme on objectivity/subjectivity and universals stems from constant study and interaction with the strong and often confident ideas of others......not to mention the fact that I am living abroad and in daily interaction with different paradigms and ways of life. This skepticism feels healthy and I like it. It feels good and necessary.

In other news, I have finished my coursework for the master's program and am now on to thesis investigation and writing!! Many highlights to share from this great year....I'll save those for an upcoming blog.

Soon I'll post on a common experience I have had here in Argentina: "y bueno Matt, que te parecen los argentinos??"

Hasta prontito ches!!

Cuba perceptions

2010-12-07T21:13:00.001-08:00

Hi everyone!

Maaaaan that last blog entry was a stretch....and yes it's been too long since I last blogged. Coursework is incredibly intense right now and post Dec. 20th I want to blog something great.

I'm putting together my thesis project proposal, which has to do with American perceptions of Cuba.....specifically of the Cuban embargo (bloqueo).

Quick question for everyone: do you think that the majority of Americans want to maintain the embargo or to end it?? (I'll update next week with what polls show)

*Update*: Various polls (Gallup, PEW, Harris, Pollingreport.com) show that the great majority of Americans want diplomatic normalization with Cuba (this majority has been incredibly stable since the 1970s) and in the last ten years polls are showing that most Americans are in favor of ending the embargo completely. In late October of this year, in the UN General Assembly 187 countries voted for a resolution condemning the embargo as breaking various international norms and against the spirit of the UN Charter (amongst other critiques) with 2 countries voting against the resolution. (The US and Israel)

So the international community of nations is against it, and so are we actually........

For those interested in why other countries are so unanimously opposed to the embargo, click here for a summary of statements at the UN General Assembly debate and here for the two page pdf of the resolution (65/6)

Education and Power

2010-10-31T15:39:00.001-07:00

Power.

POWER.

Power over, or power with? or both?

As you may imagine, we talk a lot about power in my international relations (IR) program. In general and simplified, IR realists perceive a 'power over' world and IR liberals (sometimes called idealists in IR) perceive a 'power with' world. I won't talk too long about power, although the subject fascinates me, but a thought (yes one of those...like a good birder I carry around a notepad with me at all times to jot down what I've seen and of course I color code for rare sightings...thanks to avid birder Justin Michels for this tip) occurred to me the other today regarding power and our education system.

Joseph Nye coined the phrase 'Soft Power' back in the early nineties when analyzing how states get other states to do what they want. He already knew that states will use Hard power, ie coercion via force (military power) and payment (economic power), but realized that sometimes these are not good enough. Soft power then, is the ability to get others to do what you want through attraction, and states according to Nye will become more attractive by exporting attractive cultural goods and ideas, and through foreign policy seen as legitimate like taking part in multilateral institutions, abiding by international norms, etc. Soft power fascinates me and just the other day I was speaking with a political adviser from the South African Embassy who told me that Soft Power is the future (at least for his country he believes). Not sure how many of you are now familiar with the concept of Ubuntu...it basically messages solidarity and to me is the dominate cultural export of South Africa....almost as if they are trying to brand themselves with it creating a very positive national identity in the eyes of the global community.

Anyway, how does this connect to education. I was speaking with my buddy Ray Bauer who teaches Spanish in a public school in a suburb right outside of Chicago, about the possibility of the Spanish program at his school being cut. This made me think about something I heard Sir Ken Robinson say:

But something strikes you when you move to America and when you travel around the world: every education system on earth has the same hierarchy of subjects. Every one, doesn’t matter where you go, you’d think it would be otherwise but it isn’t. At the top are mathematics and languages, then the humanities, and the bottom are the arts. Everywhere on earth.

And in pretty much every system too, there’s a hierarchy within the arts. Art and music are normally given a higher status in schools than drama and dance. There isn’t an education system on the planet that teaches dance every day to children the way we teach them mathematics. Why? Why not? I think this is rather important. I think maths is very important but so is dance. Children dance all the time if they’re allowed to, we all do. We all have bodies, don’t we? Did I miss a meeting?

Truthfully what happens is, as children grow up we start to educate them progressively from the waist up. And then we focus on their heads. And slightly to one side.

So, why is it that we prioritize Math? Looking at it from a traditional IR perspective (the realist perspective) one might say it has something to do with our states main interest: national security. This is achieved (according to realists) by maximizing our technological, productive and destructive capabilities. Perhaps Art then, is not seen as essential to our Hard Power needs. However, as Soft power becomes more important in a more interdependent, democratic and nuclear world (nukes make wars more costly), maybe states will start rethinking what subjects they prioritize. What IS the ultimate objective of education, anyway?

So often when I hear commentary on national education reform, or how are the US education system is failing, etc, inevitably in this commentary statistics on how we compare internationally in Math and Science scores are given. What I'm getting at, then, is the link between education - and economic, technological and military power....education as first and foremost serving our national interest of state security. A very realist interpretation for sure, in what I think is still (unfortunately) a very realist inter-national environment.

This has been a long-winded, and possibly not too exciting, way of introducing this concept of Soft Power (~cultural attraction) to you all, ultimately as a way of implying an argument (from an IR perspective) for the sustained funding of subjects (specifically the arts!!!) because they increase our nations Soft Power. I would never like to make this argument (i.e. fund the arts so we can get our way!!)....but perhaps the more arguments the better for these first to go subjects.

Ultimately, I hope this post spurs reflection and hopefully some comments on the objective of education. What is it for, and what should it be for?

(Tip: check out the link I posted on Sir Ken Robinson's name....20 minute talk that is really funny and interesting!)

Interpret as needed, please

2010-10-03T17:02:00.000-07:00

I have breathing room. But how can I really say that...breathing room. Ohhh boy, I hope ambiguity is not off putting. please.

Maybe what I mean is that I have some mental space to calmly sit and reflect via blog. I am sorry that these reflections have come less often than I intend. I have been wrapped up in a world of other people's ideas/opinions. Tomorrow, I wrap up 1.5 months of constant investigation and paper writing to finish my second trimester. However, I have already started my third trimester here, having finished an 8 day intensive International Negotiations course. My head is spinning, in such a good way. I really don't even know where to begin:

The illusion of group identities, the individual speed of life, streets as oppressive to human relationships, Argentina: 4 - Spain: 1, Iguazu Falls, soft power, India - Brazil - South Africa as world democratizors, the catch 22 of cultural analysis, "energy stupid use," Centro para Refugiados y Migrantes Africanos (CRyMAF), Violentology in La Plata....shut up already matt.

I'm assuming some of these write-bytes (made that up) are much less clear to you than others.....my very good friend Robert Kordenbrock would certainly read those write-bytes and say "you narcissist!" (and he would make me laugh)....but I guess the point, other than messaging my current state of intensifying mental entropy (does that make sense anyone?), is to quickly communicate some of what has been on my mind, and some of what I've been involved with and experienced since mid-August. Just flashes. I cannot go in depth on each write-byte....and there are many more but these hit me first. Interpret their meaning as needed, please.

So, then what do I do here? How to choose what I most want to talk about. Or, do I choose what I think you most want to hear about...but is that sacrificing blog integrity in some way...well, no because I write this for you...but with what intention?.....well, to keep you in the loop and create a space for societal/cultural reflection, etc......sounds kind of boring matt. haha. too many ideas right now....and that doesn't imply quality, just quantity. to imply quality would also imply objective standards and hmm, not sure I believe in those. (interpret as needed, please.....hopefully not as blasphemy....but no pressure)

Everything is moving quickly, I'm already in October. March, April, May, June, July, August, September = 7 months. Ay dios. I am here until the end of June. I am here, now. (right? well, okay right now my head is swimming in the sea of american cultural reference.....and once I'm down I'll read a book that takes me somewhere else....how here have I been?)

How here have I been?

Everytime I skype I'm with you. Most times I read I'm taken back and forward, sometimes into the intended 'universal.' Hmm.

So, what am I trying to say? I have not really been in Buenos Aires. I have been in my head via the heads of others via the via the via the via the. What a quilombo. How and why do we interpret the world? there is no normal.

My mind is in flux. As Chris would remind me, I am trying to see with a 'beginners mind.' I hope to become more beginner ever day.

Don't worry, I don't really expect any comments. Knowledge, relationships, nothing is constructed in a linear way, so that may explain this blog a little bit.

Brazil had presidential elections today.

If someone wears glasses we think differently about them.

I'm optimistic.

Interpret as...okay, you get it. (a contradiction!)

El Parque

2010-08-16T16:21:00.000-07:00

I go to Parque Lezama a lot.

It's amazing to me, and probably my favorite place to be in this entire city. Every time I go I am wrapped up by the fabric spun between social interactions of a diverse array of humans and animals. The park is gritty, eloquent, bohemian and historic...just like the barrio of San Telmo where it is located, and where I live.

I walk under palm trees in mid-Bs As winter. I see young people spray painting murals. I sit on the giant stairs of a decaying amphitheater that was inspired by ancient Greece. I drink mate and see many others doing the same. I watch a drum circle perform within 2 meters of where a homeless man is sleeping on a mattress. I watch dogs wearing t-shirts, humanized by their owners, run quickly to sniff the nether regions of other new dog friends. This life of dogs, both street and house, cracks me up, especially when I see owners haphazardly run after and reprimand the unacceptable behavior of their best friends. I see groups of 10 to 12 older men playing cards on a stone table, and I notice a power dynamic amongst the laughter. I talk international politics with a union leader who was visiting from Tierra del Fuego. I buy a kitchen knife at the weekend flea market on the southern side of the park that borders la Boca. I also talk to an 80 year old book seller for a while, who tells me he makes next to nothing as a puestero, but does it to converse and be with people. I've watched high school kids play intense soccer on dirt, under large, looming trees....the goal celebrations are passionate. I catch a kid as he is cruising out of control down the hill on his training wheels bike.

The park is always an event, and it is alive. Really not that big, it is home to a dynamic and diverse intersection of society, culture and ecology that produces realities spanning from the sobering to the joyful, and a million other words.

En fin, the dogs always make me laugh.

Cultural Hijinks

2010-07-25T12:55:00.000-07:00

I recently remembered a funny experience I had back in 2005 on Isla de Ometepe in Nicaragua with four French-Canadian travelers. Somehow I found myself in a throwing contest with them. I threw first and my rock landed about 4 feet from the target. I was not happy with this result and nervous that I would be the one climbing up the coconut tree (or something similar we established as the loser's reward). Low and behold, the French-Canadian guys all threw the stone barely 15 feet, missing the target by about 20. I was pleasantly surprised. Point here is not to suggest that you (Americans) should challenge French-Canadian's in throwing contests (I'm sure some would surprise you....although I'd say the odds are with you). To me throwing was a commonly acquired, normal skill; you just know how to throw...but we are a throwing culture (both baseball and softball are very popular). My guess would be that baseball/softball are not huge in French-Canada. I would actually like to test this out around the world, and in most places (save places like Japan, the Dominican Republic, Cuba, Nicaragua, etc. where baseball is popular....why else do people throw?) I think I would laugh at some very awkward throwing techniques. However, I'm pretty sure I'd have a hard time finding many outside of this country who can't pass a soccer ball. Years back, I took one of the most gifted athletes I know (Vinny Dimaria, former U of I Baseball Player) to play indoor soccer with me and he 'passed' a ball off of my forehead from about 7 feet away. Finally, the point: normal is culturally relative and this throwing memory reminds me of that.

(I'd say normal would also be determined by other factors like gender, class, etc. within cultures....but here I'm mostly talking about generalized difference between national cultures.)

So I've been listening to Sigur Ros on my subway rides to school....and have had some near silent weeping moments. What IS it about that band!? For those of you who don't know of them, they are a group from Iceland and instead of trying to describe them, I strongly suggest you listen to some of their music (here is a cool video of Planet Earth with them playing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LH2Z_1-Frb8&feature=related). One thing I really like about the music is that in a good number of their songs the singer is speaking in a very melodic gibberish called 'hopelandic.' Not that I would have understood him anyway, but now I feel even more free to interpret the songs as I wish. This just seems very unselfish of the group, and it allows the listener to co-create. I love it. Mostly the music just puts me in a good, optimistic mood and nearly makes me weep. I'm either lonely or this music is that good. Pretty sure it's the latter because I've been hanging out with some great senior citizens here:

SO, I signed up for this class at the 'Centro Cultural Rojas,' a cultural center that offers hundreds of classes on anything from beginning Portuguese, photography, to a class on writing business plans. I chose '7 art exhibitions' because the classes would take place in museums/galleries around the city, I'd learn a little bit more about contemporary art and mostly because I would meet some Argentines. Turns out that the class is mostly senior citizen women, and I. Nothing wrong with that at all, just not the demographic I was expecting. Everything was going smoothly until two Thursdays ago when we went to MALBA (Museum of Latin American Art in Buenos Aires....top notch!) to check out the work of the late Robert Mapplethorpe, an American photographer. So we start to walk the gallery of 130+ photos, and I find myself in the middle of a cloud of heavy, eye-watering musk hearing two women in the group dutifully trying to interpret a photograph which some would consider pornography were it not in a museum. I'm thinking "hmm....looks like a guy with leather on...possibly pleather...annnnnnd that looks painful" while they talked of contrasting light schemes, the geometry of the contortions of the body, it's symbolism....I mean really attempting to soak up the artistic value of the photo. Awkward as it was to look at explicit content with grandmothers, the photos challenged me to think about taboo subjects...and I think when his photos came out in the 70's/80's they probably caused a lot of controversy. To these playful 70-somethings, the photos were just not a big deal....they produced no 'shock' and instead it appeared as though they had a non-judgmental dialogue with the piece. My first reaction to some of the photos left me displeased.....and I'm thankful to this group for allowing me to consider alternative interpretations. (Which, however, doesn't mean I appreciate all of his work.)

En fin: I love these cultural exchanges. Human beings!

Que esten bien todos!

The world cup and war

2010-07-03T17:13:00.000-07:00

Saludos to those of you still reading this blog. Thanks for staying connected. Just to give you all a heads-up, my goal is to blog 1-2 times a month for the remainder of my time in Buenos Aires (until July 2011)

So, it has been just over a month since I last blogged, and after a couple of intense weeks of final papers writing and then a perfect week with my family in the states for my sister's wedding, I am back in Bs As. I've recently moved and am in the San Telmo neighborhood now. Much more barrio than where I was living before and I like this feeling.

This world cup has been unwaveringly cruel for me. Today when Argentina went down 2-0 I was ready to boycott the rest of the cup. (The Ghana defeat yesterday left me near heartbroken) Thankfully I didn't, and was able to see Argentina get scored on two more times. Ugh. I was in Plaza San Martin to watch the match on a big screen, on the side of a hill with around 10,000 others. It was a tough game to watch, and in the end Argentina fell 4-0 to Germany. However, when the final whistle blew I was very impressed to hear the remaining fans applaud. It was a really great moment. Here soccer is king and the passion for the game is intense, and in all honesty I was not expecting this. I'm not sure if it was to applaud Argentina or Germany, but either way I admire the show of respect.

It is just a game, but when the result of a game has the potential to bring people together in a uniquely positive way, generating collective joy and a blissful unity (even if it is fleeting), it becomes much more than a game. I really wanted Argentina to win the world cup so that I could witness this firsthand. For a brief period of time, I imagine that a world cup victory would bring together an entire nation to to celebrate a common achievement, allowing everyone to transcend difference and be happy together. I wanted to see what this looks and feels like on a national level. Back when I was in college and U of I almost one the NCAA Basketball Championship I feel like I got a tiny glimpse of this in Champaign-Urbana. We didn't win and of course we didn't reach the same height of joy as the champs, but the unity was there and palpable. I also felt this unity in Guaranda, Ecuador during Carnaval. What else can unite, passionately, large groups of people?

Unfortunately, reading on War Theory this week (not sure if it's called that in English), I have been prompted to reflect on the political and social functions of war. Some historical sociologists claim that waging war has been a really effective way to build a nation-state. Some interesting insights are thinking about how a war can bring people together passionately for a common cause (against a common threat, perceived or real) and in effect create a national identity and the social cohesion/emotional ties fundamental to a functioning society. With this, war may foster the development of a central authority (because of the disappearance of regional and/or ethnic loyalties), and then demand more from citizens, such as demanding high taxes and building greater institutional/bureaucratic frameworks.

Anyway, there is much more to war theory. I guess the link here for me in talking about the world cup and how war develops societies is reflecting on what can unite large groups of people for a common cause, but in a sustained and peaceful way, globally. (I'm not an idealist at all, eh?) I think I'll turn to social psychology to see what I can find, and I'll have time to do this now that I have no team to root for.

Although, if Uruguay went all the way....I could always hop on a boat to Montevideo......there is still hope!

Bonus: In the video below you can see part of the crowd at Plaza San Martin. In retrospect, I may have been overly into this game....can you sense the intensity in my voice? Ay dios! Argentina had just scored a goal that was taken back. I think this brief clip captures my world cup 2010 experience.

Lastly: I love reading your comments....let's hear your reactions/reflections/perspectives!

Dale che

2010-05-16T20:28:00.000-07:00

My camera has been broken since Bolivia, and I am realizing that it is much easier to write blogs when I have pictures to help narrate.

Dale. (means "okay," "alright," "right on," or more specifically in this case "let's do this")

Instead of writing a fluid narrative of the past month, I'm just going to free flow for a bit. I have sat down at the computer a couple of times now, and whether due to writer's block, being busy with school or whatever, the words just haven't come.

So here I am, in the attic feeling loft area of my apartment. I've been living with an Argentine actor named Fernando. I don't know his last name and I think that's because he goes only by Fernando. And yes, you should read the name as though it is said very passionately. Ferrrrrnaaaaaando. Great guy, and big fan of the show LOST. Apparently the show just ended and according to Ferrrrnaaaaaando (make sure to roll the 'r' gringos), it ended still a quilombo (a mess.) It's been great living with an Argentine, and we've organized a group of guys to play soccer on Fridays. Half Argentine actors and half International Relations students from various Universities. A couple of Americans, Australians, a Puertoriqueno and a Brasilero. So far the group of IR students have won more times than the Argentines, and although I'm secretly very happy about this feat, we do have the Brazilian guy on our team. Woah! Easy there with the stereotypes....I mean he's good, but as I've told him on various occasions he has more of a 'Canadian flare.' Woah....again with the generalizations...what does that even mean! Well, in the soccer world, I'll tell you: Cananda is not a good soccer team and therefore one does not want to be characterized as having 'Canadian flare.' This not so secretly makes me laugh, and after various of these pseudo compliments, my Brazilian buddy, Mauricio, finally reacted with a "They don't even play soccer in Canada!!". Nothing like soccer to bring people together. I'm so happy to be playing down here.

Next up: Critical Mass

This picture was taken at the most recent 'Masa Critica' (Critical Mass) in Buenos Aires. I attended the mobilization and am in that mass somewhere, but I haven't been able to find myself. (I'm either somewhere off to the right of the picture or behind someone.) Basically Critical Mass is an 'unorganized gathering' of mostly bikers who collectively (power in numbers) take over the streets and ride through different parts of the city. People take part for a variety of reasons, and I would say the overarching objective is to promote alternative and more earth friendly modes of transportation and to promote biker rights in cities. The revolutionaries in the group revel in the protest nature of the ride while others join just to meet new people. Either way, it was great and left me feeling very connected to people and to the city in general. We covered quite a bit of ground, starting on the famous Avenida 9 de Julio, then into Puerto Madero, down to La Boca then back up through San Telmo and Constitucion, cruising through the 'Microcentro' and ending at the 'Independent Book Festival' in Barrio Norte. The day before Critical Mass I had gone to the same book festival, which has strong anarchist roots, and interacted very minimally with others. However, post Critical Mass ride I was waayyyyy less reserved and had a great time conversing with many friendly anarchists. Funny how that happens. SO, critical mass takes place in cities all over the world and I highly advise you check it out....especially if you're new to a city!

Next: Birthdays and People

On May 24 I turned 28 years old. The following day Argentina turned 200! Well, the official independence day is on July 9th, but their 'May Revolution' ended on the 25th and there were massive celebrations for 5 days straight. The 'Avenida 9 de Julio' was absolutely packed with people all the way up and down, and as you can see in the picture it is a massive avenue. After a great day filled with parks, dodgeball and wine/celebration on Avenida 9 de Julio...my friends threw me a birthday party! This is a nice little segue into talking about some of them....

My fellow classmates are from the US, Ireland, Brazil, Belgium, Norway, China, Australia, Finland, Canada and of course Argentina. Very interesting group of people, and their fascinating experiences/mostly well rounded humor complement the masters program very well. I've been to a couple of birthday parties now, and the traditional "Happy Birthday" song is usually sung in 4 or 5 languages...one after the other. Quite interesting, but getting old. Kidding! I love the diversity in people and in quality of singing. Most of the birthday songs have the same tune, by the way.

As for my fellow Rotary Peace Fellows.....I could not be happier with the group! In descending order according to 'peacefulness': Keely is from South Carolina, Ouida is from San Francisco, Jeremy is from Australia (north of Taree I believe), Sarah is from Washington D.C., Julia is from near Porto Alegre, Brazil, Sinead is from Ireland and Steven is from Texas. This does not tell you a whole lot about them, of course, and for the record they are equally and extraordinarily 'peaceful.' Once again, I feel lucky to be surrounded by interested, interesting and kind people.

So, in a couple of hours I meet with my thesis advisor for the first time since early March. My first trimester of classes ended yesterday, and after attempting to synthesize a very large amount of content on International Cooperation, Conflict and Development theory, International Relations theory and Peace Studies.....I've again arrived at: Citizens Diplomacy! Only now, understanding the international 'system' in only a slightly more sophisticated way, I am starting to understand better where CD fits into the system, and it' s real potential for democratizing it.....empowering voices from bellow! At any rate, in terms of investigating CD projects, I have found some interesting work in Israel/Palestine, Colombia and Cypress. Who knows where I'll be come January when I hit the field!?

I'm still waiting for summer, by the way. Perhaps this means I'm a stubborn person, but my whole life May means warm! June means even warmer (amongst other things, of course)! But here, we are entering fall, and although I love the smells and being able to wear highly technical water wicking, and most importantly tight fleeces, I still find myself waiting for summer when clearly it is not coming. My last blog was on language and meaning. I'm in the process of changing the meaning of May and June in a sense. This to me is one of the beautiful things about living in different geographic and cultural settings....reflecting on meaning. The external determinants of meaning...and the fluid nature of meaning! Ah! Un quilombo. This is what has me reflecting so much on language, including non-verbal language. Where does the meaning we place on all forms of language come from? Is it externally or internally determined? In other words, how much 'say' do we have in the meaning of anything. And, how and why does meaning change in different contexts? The importance of these answers are enormous, I believe. If we are not the creators of meaning, then who/what is? Sure, the meaning of 'toast' may not have large social and global ramifications, but the meaning of the 'other' does. For those non-Muslims: What does, say, 'Islam' mean to you? And where did that meaning come from? The news, conversations on religion with Muslims, and/or after having read the Koran yourself? Passively accepting meaning (both negative and positive meaning) can be a dangerous thing. However I don't believe in 'accurate' meanings, although I do believe in more accurate interpretations. But does this assume an 'objective reality,' or a 'truth.' Hmm. Either way, reflecting on your meaning for everything is trying and difficult, but perhaps makes you more of the owner of your own life, to the extent possible. For now, my 'meaning' of having an open mind would be allowing for 'new interpretations, or, new meanings of knowledge" ....through critical self reflection, dialogue, art, citizens diplomacy, etc, etc, etc, etc..........

I'll hopefully be able to return to those thoughts in a more coherent manner....but hey, that's freestyle!

I also hope to soon get my camera fixed and expose you all to some of the beautiful places and people I have encountered in this massive city.

Until then....chau!

I'd like to speak Brazilian

2010-04-25T15:10:00.000-07:00

I accidentally say that all of the time and quickly correct myself by saying "Brazilian Portuguese." Most people laugh at me when I make this error.

The reason I bring this up is because:

a. I had no plan going into this blog

and

b. Language is something I've been thinking about a lot lately:

To what extent is our ability to think, imagine, dream, create, and accordingly to act determined by the words we know (and their respective meanings). If we cannot put a word to it, can we think it? Are our minds held captive by our vocabularies!? "That's preposterous", my words say to me in a haughty British accent (what does that even mean?).

What do you think?

I have my ideas, but I'd like to hear(read) yours first. Really, any reflections on language are welcome!

Hope you are all well! I am enjoying this mix of new cultural experience and the busy solitude of graduate school study................................

El Super

2010-04-03T16:16:00.000-07:00

Grocery stores in Buenos Aires are inefficient at checking customers out. Yes, all of them. The calico cat is out of the bag.

Today I found a line with only two customers in front of me and decided to stay. Judging from my past experiences in grocery stores this check out (based on total items and customers in front of me) should have taken 5 minutes max. Max. I'm no newbie to calculation, and I think this was a conservative estimate.

10 minutes later I'm looking back just waiting for the looks. Nothing. No looks! I was quietly considering to myself a public display of non-verbal impatience, but I was the only one in that line even close. I'm finally realizing that check out lines are just slower here. (To prevent theft they do a lot of paperwork and id checking at the check out...and they even gloss all oranges with a neutral vegetable wax...a nice little perk.)

Pues, this made me reflect on patience and why I become impatient. One of my favorite books, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, suggests that the root of impatience is expectation of time. I thought 5 minutes was more than a reasonable expectation of time, and so right after the 5 minute mark I became susceptible to impatience. I would bet that everyone around me had doubled my expectation of time and hence...no looks. Not even a set of crossed arms. (And I've seen this here...)

Point being, impatience can take an unneeded toll on my morale and so I think it's good to prevent it. Moving to a different country, one quickly realizes that a lot of things work differently. I'm in Buenos Aires, not Chicago, and it's easy to forget that in a familiar feeling grocery store. Anyway, some things move faster here (like public transportation!!), some slower, and so until I'm better integrated, I'm just going to give myself totally unrealistic and large amounts of time. But then again isn't that laziness? Hmm. I'm going to give myself 1 year to figure that one out.

In the mean time, classes are great and obviously have me thinking, probably too much. And, I was kidding about the glossing of the oranges. Creative license!

The Distance

2010-03-19T07:14:00.000-07:00

During my first weeks of class we have already touched on topics in the fields of sociology, history, political science, economics and especially philosophy. International Relations seems to be heavily theory based, and one of the dominant theories, if not the dominant theory historically, is called realism. I bring this up because one of the tenets of this theory is that human nature is ultimately egotistical and self-interested, above all else. I don't happen to agree with this, and either do a lot of other theories....and I bring it up because I want to reflect a little bit on human nature in relation to my trip and my intentions moving forward.

To be clear, I would never claim to have any sort of understanding of a universal characteristic of 'human nature.' However, operating within the very very limited world of my personal experiences (lived, read, seen, heard, etc.), I think I have come across something that mayyyyyybe everyone wants to do: travel. During my trip, and throughout my life, I have not met anyone who would not like to travel. I think this has desire has its roots, perhaps, in a deeper shared desire of us humans, to seek and ideally experience the 'new.' We fulfill this desire in many ways: through books and stories, new clothes and other material items, meeting new people, listening to new music, creating new art, and a million other ways. One example I like is that as babies, we go from a fast crawl to a very slow, awkward and sometimes painful walk....in name of the 'new'. How do you typically fulfill this desire for the new? And, how would you most want to fulfill it? I think one common answer to the second question may have big implications for fostering better relationships around the world, and possibly offer a catalyst in the pursuit of peace. Stay with me....

My guide in the beautiful hilltop natural reserve in Quito, Ecuador. The activist and organizer for 'carnivores anonymous' in Medellin, Colombia. The woman cleaning the Plaza Presidencial and one of the police officers guarding it in La Paz, Bolivia. The gentleman who beat me in travel checkers on a bus in Guatemala. The elderly fellow I shared ice cream with at a plaza in old Cartegena, Colombia. All of these people and many others all expressed a very strong desire to visit Chicago. Chicago, and everywhere else.....the sentiment was to travel and know other places.

Most powerfully for me was a conversation I had with Fransisco in Guaranda, Ecuador in the middle of the party during carnaval. After covering my face with powder, he turned serious for a moment. Very directly and simply he asked me, "why can you travel here, but I cannot travel to your home?". He was not really expecting an answer. This unfairness is not lost on anyone, be us illiterate campesionos, highly educated street vendors, doctors, etc. To me it is in some ways a tragic scene to see us foreigners, mostly from the 'North', enjoy and explore the natural beauty of these countries as we unconsciously pass by a majority of people who will never have these experiences, although they exist in their homeland. I was among those who create this tragic juxtaposition. I will never forget peeling potatoes with Julia, a very sharp 80+ year old Peruvian woman, telling me about the beauty of Machu Picchu and then explaining that she has never been able to visit.

(However, I believe that the not so tragic aspect of foreign visitors is when a cultural exchange where strong inter-national and inter-cultural relationships are built. More on that later...)

I guess I agree with Jared Diamond in claiming 'geographic luck,' to explain the developmental differences between countries (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guns,_Germs,_and_Steel:_The_Fates_of_Human_Societies.) However, these differences still persist in a highly globalized and hyper-connected world because we still live separate from one another. I am American and Fransisco is Ecuadorian...upon birth we are entitled to different domestic rights and opportunities. As an American, a lot of my identity is confined to my national borders. His unfair misfortune does not even have to exist for me. But why?

Through my initial studies on some of the other larger theories used in International Relations, such as Liberalism, Critical Theory and Constructivism, I have come across concepts such as 'global civil society,' 'internationalism,' and 'cosmopolitanism.' One argument claims that when nations become more interdependent, mainly in economic terms, not only do we have a great material incentive not to go to war, but the people in the interdependent countries will gradually come to know one another and become conscious of shared interests, values and ultimately an identity. This would lead to a sense of 'global citizenship' (internationalism/cosmopolitanism) of mutual recognition and understanding, where Fransisco's problem would then be my problem...leading to greater global equity and fostering greater peace (peace not only as the absence of war and structural violence, but the fulfillment of all basic human needs).

I like the theory, but my critique would be that although we have strengthened commercial exchange and interdependence (just look at where your t-shirt came from), the direct 'cultural exchange' between peoples of different nations is still very rare, and mainly takes place in the corridors of commerce by highly educated and wealthy people, mostly white and mostly male. So we rely on these people we do not know to give us information about the 'others.' This makes us especially vulnerable to misinformation, misconception and fear when those privileged few want to make the 'other' look a certain way to perhaps help their agenda. Even if they are giving us their honest portrayal, it is through their perspective and interpretation, one that is certainly different than the diverse array of perspectives and interpretations that would be found through the immense diversity of people in our societies.

Enter the concept of 'citizen diplomacy.' A lot of people, including myself, ask ourselves what we can possibly do, in short, to promote peace around the world. Although obviously just one strategy to complement many others, I find 'citizen diplomacy' an interesting and compelling answer to this because it is work that can be done by us individuals. I find it fundamental to building global peace.

So, what is it? The US Center for Citizen Diplomacy defines it as: "the concept that the individual has the right, even the responsibility, to help shape U.S. foreign relations, “one handshake at a time.” Citizen diplomats can be students, teachers, athletes, artists, business people, humanitarians, adventurers or tourists. They are motivated by a responsibility to engage with the rest of the world in a meaningful, mutually beneficial dialogue." Of course I don't see Citizen Diplomacy as just helping 'U.S. Foreign Relations,' but everyone.

Entonces, by traveling abroad, in whatever fashion, and building relationships with 'others' from different countries through shared experiences, we can act as 'citizen diplomats' building cultural bridges between different peoples and places...eliminating and undermining fear and harmful misconception...building the family I talked about in the 'We Drink Their Coffee' blog….in fancy terms that I like: expanding our 'emotional identity' to include those people who don't happen to live within our national borders, and accordingly extend to them our hearts, empathy AND civic voice. Then we can bring back these experiences to our friends and family, and share a new perspective on the people/place visited.....and so the snowball grows.

Another great thing about citizen diplomacy, is its effect on social relations at home, as we realize the 'distance' that exists between us and our neighbors....be them next door or in a different part of town. How would your life change if you saw things through their eyes...included them in your emotional identity?

So, how can we develop greater levels of 'citizen diplomacy?' I don't know, but I hope to further investigate and possibly take this on as my thesis. Fransisco has an idea of a lottery, where depending on how many people are in your town, X amount of the town residents are selected to travel somewhere for a given amount of time, and upon return to the town share their experience with other town residents. Especially for those countries where international travel is not accessible to most people, I really like this idea. So, as I look for other strategies to promote these direct, shared intercultural experiences I will share any great ideas and insights that I find. In the mean time, let me know if you have any ideas, suggestions, critiques, etc.

I have spent so much time on this because I really think that we can harness this shared desire (of the new and travel) to create a better world. ‘Citizen diplomacy' can act as a catalyst to creating stronger local, regional, national and international understanding/relationships....for peace!

I End this long blog with a THANK YOU:

Thank you everyone for reading my blog and sharing this experience with me. I always look forward to your comments as they keep my reflective AND connected to you all throughout my sometimes lonely trip. Thank you to those friends who connected me to locals along the way. Thank you to all of those many people during my journey who pointed me in the right direction. These were people on buses, in the street, at mini markets, etc. and they were essential to my trip. Thank you to maps. Thank you everyone!

Having said all of that, my blog is not dead. My intention is to post every two or three weeks about my life in Bs. As., and of course I will reflect on the interesting ideas I come across in class, at cultural centers, at 'el cine', during conversations with strangers in plazas and not so strangers after 5v5 indoor soccer matches, etc.

Nos vemos, eh?!

Good Air

2010-03-11T12:07:00.001-08:00

Hello everyone!

As you have guessed, I made it safely to Buenos Aires. Yee! After a 28 hour bus ride from the Bolivian border, I arrived at 1am on Monday, March 1st. I slept for 6 hours at my residencia and then left immediately to pick up good friend Andy 'El Tigre' Meeks at the Ezeiza International Airport. We have collectively walked at least 200 miles on the streets of this town over the past week and a half, and have only seen a fraction of it. Buenos Aires is HUGE. Andy is a writer and an astute observer. That may seem like a non-sequitur, but the reason I say it is because I've been asking him to describe the city so far. Neither of us can do it, and although we may only know the surface, we both acknowledge that there is something special and very unique about Bs. As. We can't yet explain it, but we both feel it and really like it.

So, while exploring the city with Andy, getting ready for school, finding an apartment, and making various trips to migrations, there has been very little time to sit down at a computer. (Although plenty of time to find a park or plaza and sip on great $2.50 Mendoza wine to converse with El Tigre). This is a good thing, except for me not stopping for a moment to get on here and blog. Very soon I will settle in and wrap up my trip down with a blog post I've been thinking about since leaving the Argentine border. In the meantime, please know that I am safe and very happy. Just feeling very lucky to have this opportunity and overly excited to learn. What, a, geek!

The other Rotary Peace Fellows that I have met and the staff at my university (La Universidad del Salvador) seem to be very kind and professional. Things are looking really good, and I have my first class in 70 minutes. Here we go.....!

Almost.....

2010-02-27T13:44:00.000-08:00

I`ve made it to Argentina! Hardly though, as I am in the border town of La Quiaca waiting for my 10pm departure. My final bus ride will take 32 hours. People a long the way keep asking if I`m tired, and the answer right now is ¨yes.¨ I`m spent, but I think it has more to do with a battle between me and the amoebas/parasites/bacterial infection currently in my stomach (went to the hospital for the diagnosis on Tuesday and thanks to some meds I`m MUCH better now.....but the battle is not over). This plus drastically changing altitudes, a stuffy nose and less than ideal rest on buses have worn me out. I was talking to myself on a park bench yesterday and didn`t realize it for 5 minutes. It could easily have been 10.

With that in mind, I think this is a great time to look back on the amazing experience that has left me physically beaten up, but internally stronger and more committed to the pursuit of peace. Here are some of my favorite pics of the beautiful people and places whom I have met a long the way:

(Ah! Total tease and I apologize. After waiting for a long time for pictures to upload I`ve found out that nowhere in La Quiaca is the internet fast enough to upload pictures. So, I`ll do this right away when I arrive to Buenos Aires.)

UPDATE:
1. Rotary International rep in the beautiful center of Xela, Guatemala.
2. My room in Santa Lucia Cotzulmalguapa, Guatemala
3. Sunset in Sunzál, El Salvador
4. Sunrise in El Alto Aguacate, El Salvador
5. Entering Nicaragua on a bike cart
6. Marlón and co-worker who helped him ready the sack. El Porvenir, Nicaragua
7. A colorful barrio in the hills of Medellín, Colombia
8. Celebrating an Atlético Nacional goal. Medellín, Colombia
9. ¨Political power comes from the streets, not the ballot boxes.¨ Quito, Ecuador
10. Beautiful view during the bus ride to Guaranda, Ecuador.
11. Peeling potatoes with viejitas in Lima, Peru.
12. Dark and dingy lucha libre. La Paz, Bolivia

note: I lost my photos from 1-3 to 1-15 and my camera broke after La Paz.

Body slams in Bolivia

2010-02-22T15:41:00.000-08:00

La Paz is making me stop and take deep breaths. According to wikipedia, it is 3,600 meters above sea level and mainly sits in a bowl surrounded by the high Andean altiplano.

I typically arrive to a city´s bus terminal, then take a mini van looking colectivo to the center of the city and walk briskly with my backpack to a hostal. I´ve been using a guidebook since Colombia so I always have a map handy of the respective city center, and usually know where to find a hostal. Typically I find a place on the way to the hostal I found in the guide, though....I like the less touristy places.

So, right when I arrived at my hostal in La Paz, I saw a flyer for ´Las Cholitas´ female lucha libre. I really did not know what to expect, except for their to be women wrestling. I arrived to a somewhat dingy gymnasium 400 meters higher than the city center in El Alto, and the show began with two guys in haphazard costumes, gym shoes and a fake brick. I was waiting for the ring to break. Then in the third match, an older, round gentlman wearing a wrestling unitard and with a bumble bee painted in black on his chest pranced out smuggly. After him came a women dressed in what I´m told is traditional ´chola´ dress who did a traditional dance around the ring. To my great, great surprise, one minute later this happened:

This was the second back body slam. Later, la ´cholita´ would come back to win. This was by far the crowd favorite fight of the night.

This video gives you a better view of ´chola´ dress.

On the way down from the lucha, I spoke with the women who organizes the event. It was an interesting exchange, hearing her concerns about not wanting to sacrifice the authenticity of the event to appeal to the many foreign tourists who attend the show. She told me that Bolivian lucha libre has been around since the 50´s and that women have been wrestling for about 10 years now in that show (foreigners have been coming for 4 years or so). Definitely not for everyone, but I was glad to see a women go head to head with a man, and definitely hold her own. Maybe this is an indication of a shift in traditional gender relations...I don´t know. Maybe it´s a ploy to make more money. What I do know that the first body slam reeeeally got me off guard.

Para La Paz

2010-02-20T13:23:00.001-08:00

I`ve been traveling very quickly over the past week, and am now in Arequipa, Peru. Tonight I move again, onto La Paz. Two 18 hour bus rides through Peru, and luckily I think I´ve finally figured out how to sleep comfortably on a bus. On the trip from Guayaqui to Lima, I sat next to a really nice guy who did not snore often, but when he did it was a thunder that even woke him up (always confused, wondering if it was me I think).

The bus rides have really been an experience, and in every country I´ve visited the informal sector is present. ¨Gaseooooosa gaseooooosa......que le doy amor¨ or ¨pan de queso, tengo empanadas!¨ or ¨agua-agua-agua!¨ and the list goes on. Aside from the people selling snacks or drinks, I have been preached to a lot, both about the merits of different religions AND about the merits of various natural medicines. On my trip to Lima I was very close to purchasing a ´miracle tea´ but the ingredients said ¨uña de gato¨ which translates to ¨cat claws¨....and so I passed. I later found out that ¨uña de gato¨ is a flower. One of my favorite purchases from the informal sector was from ´tinteros´in Colombia. Tinteros walk around with large thermoses full of coffee and pour 2 or 5 oz. cups.

These people are making a living selling cheap goods on buses, parks, streets, etc, and I always wonder about how fulfilling the work is. I´m guessing that most of these people live in poverty, and having a ´fulfilling´ job is not one of their main priorities. I am lucky to be able to think of fulfilling work. Yes, this is a good reminder to not take that for granted, but even more importantly for me it´s a reminder of the unfairness of their situation, and how little I understand the roots of it. What´s most tragic is that many of the people selling goods in the informal sector are children, an estimated 2 million in Peru alone.

I´ve commented on this ´unfairness´ before, and that term is perhaps ambiguous. Here I mean that I find it unfair that because I was born in Carol Stream, IL I had a huge social advantage over the the tintero who was born in a very poor barrio outside of Cartegena.....I was lucky. In my case, the fundamental element of me being here is that luck. However, instead of lamenting the situation, I do see hope in working towards a ´global society´ that would ideally, poco a poco, rectify these social inequities....globally. I even see travel as a catalyst to achieving this. But, this is a HUGE subject, and one I will definitely be coming back to later. Although it sounds very idealistic to think that a ´global society´ is possible and that it would help alleviate this unfairness, it has been a subject of debate in international relations since the Enlightenment, and one I hope to study in depth.

SO, I have one week left of traveling, and am trying to maintain focus on the places I visit....the whole ´live in the moment´thing we aspire for, and I`m still trying, but I am very, very excited to arrive in Buenos Aires on March 1st. I´m excited to leave my shampoo in the bathroom, figuratively and literally. No, just literally.

Having said that, unpacking will be nice, but I will definitely miss the breadth of new cultural and geographic exposure, and definitely the spontaneity of this trip. Hopefully in Buenos Aires I´ll be able to stay in the mindset of discovering every day. As I will have much more than 2 days to get to know Buenos Aires, I´m excited to really deepen my understanding of the culture, history, politics, people, etc.

I´m wiped and am going to try an Inca Kola for the first time. It´s bright yellow pop (or soda for some of you), but I have to try it.

(Playing soccer with some kids in the San Miguel barrio of Lima. The little guy on the left appears happy with his shot. Good shot, better save.)

La garcita en Carnaval

2010-02-14T16:27:00.000-08:00

Walking a long a street in ´la ciudad blanca´, Popoyán, I saw an older man walking a dummy in a wheel chair. I got closer and indeed this man was protesting (Colombian health reform to be exact) and I wanted a photo. He agreed without a smile, and right as I was about to shoot a women entered the picture, posed and smiled. After about 10 minutes of light conversation on imperialism with the protestor, El Gato, the women yelled from a café, ¨you`re still talking to that gringo?¨. Realizing my interest in social issues, she invited us for some jugos and gave us a quick but very passionate campaign pitch for the independent political movement MIRA. It turns out that she, Diana, is running for an international seat in the Andean Parliament (Bolivia, Colombia, Peru and Ecuador hold seats). Apparently flattered by my interest in her personal story, she took me to campaign headquarters and then on the campaign trail with her that night!

Being introduced as ¨un amigo de los EEUU¨ all night, I was given a brief insiders view into the movement. The photo is of Diana (behind me...also, notice me pretending to get the joke), the MIRA team and I embarking for the first event. I later shared a ride with national senate and congress candidates and at the last stop, they introduced me to the small crowd and wanted me to give a speech! What! Conscious of my legal responsibility to stay out of Colombian politics, I said in english ¨thank you very much¨and then translated. One quick little ¨que viva MIRA!¨ would have brought the house down! But I remained diplomatic, and accordingly recieved no line of high fives on my way out, although I was light jogging and my hand was up and ready. Needless to say, that first picture up there was the beginning of a really great experience. I´m excited to learn more about independent political movements in Latin America and specifically keep up with MIRA developments.

Left Popoyán headed to Quito, Ecuador. Notable moments of the trip was being searched very thoroughly by Ecuadorian Narcs and being sprayed at with silly string foam type stuff by a passenger in a passing car near the bus stop. Immediately I´m defensive and indignant, but then someone lifts my spirits by telling me it´s a tradition of........Carnaval! Funny how that works, from ¨how rude!¨to ¨yes this is totally acceptable and I cannot wait to nail people!¨in a matter of seconds.

I am officially not pledging support to any cities for being my favorite from now on, as Quito has made a very, very strong case. This picture is on top of one of the hills in the valley where Quito is located. The top of this particular hill has recently (2004) been converted into a park and protected natural reserve. It was so nice to escape the fumes and breath in the fresh air. I take tours in spanish wherever I can, and on an individual tour my guide told me of the ´garcita´, a migratory bird that had just flown in for the night and left the following day. I think it´s the only time it comes all year. Although I really wanted her to call me ´garcita,´she gracefully declined. At any rate, I thought it was a good comparison. Last great thing to mention about this park is that it was designed to be accessible to ALL Ecuadorians, regardless of socio-economic status, disability, etc.

Quito was really great: went to some great museums, walked the beautiful and very large historic center and saw another soccer game (great but not nearly as exciting as the Nacional game). Lastly, the picture above with Quito in the background, in the foreground shows a very mini carnaval celebration. These school kids are on a field trip, and the clown in the center shooting the foam stuff is presumably their teacher. Let´s hope so.

I was told that the best Carnaval celebration in Ecuador happens in Guaranda, so that´s where I went. Judging from the bus window, Guaranda is located in the altiplano and is definitely in the Andes. Their celebration contained the four elements of generating collective joy: music and dancing, drinking, a procession and masking (thank you Barbara Ehrenreich). The masking part was most interesting because for me it came in the way of some sort of powder, spray foam and lots of water (via squart guns and water baloons, mostly). Naively thinking that if I wasn´t armed, I´d be spared...I walked through the packed plazas and was instantly covered. I decided to defend myself and others. I became a vigilante, protecting the vulnerable.

As you can see above, I purchased a small water pistol ($1). All random attacks that I saw were met with the dead eye accuracy of my strategically discreet water gun. Sure, various people made fun of it´s size, but I had the last laugh. Actually, on at least one occasion an alliance of 6 to 9 year olds hammered me. Everyone was in on this fun, and it was really funny to see a stoic faced women in traditional indigenous dress squirt someone with a little foam and then flee seconds later absolutely covered in it.

It was hard to relax at first, thinking about the potential dangers in a crowd of many thousands. But after a while, it seemed that everyone I encountered was in really wonderful spirits. There was a totally joyous and positive energy that was alive. I was skeptical at first, but it was there. We need more of this collective joy!

Carnaval was so much fun, but it would have been even more fun with friends and family. Miss you all!

(The morning after...near one of the plazas in Guaranda where Carnaval was wild)

Fear in Colombia

2010-02-08T08:45:00.001-08:00

I´m frisked in a not so gentle but inoffensive way as I walk into the stadium to watch the clásico between Atletico Nacional (green team, my team) and Medellín. Both teams are from Medellín and I just happen to be in town to watch one of the biggest matches of the year! I´m now surrounded by over 30,000 overly excited humans. Insults are being yelled to the opposing fans 400 meters away and not heard, cherry bombs are going off, the craziest fans in the barb wire enclosed section are taunting police in riot gear by easily climbing over the spiny fence, make shift newspaper confetti is everywhere, I´m getting hit with water, I smell some mota, everyone is on their feet and as Nacional comes out we are yelling ¨VAAAAAAAMOOOOOS, VAMOS MI VERRRRRRRRDEEEEEE, ESTA TARRRRRRRRDEEEEEEEE, TENEMOS QUE GANARRRRRRRRR¨. (video below)

I felt great, but was not without that always existent element of vulnerability. This was chaos, but it was controlled somehow. Trying not to think about the potential for the very fine line to be crossed from controled chaos into riot, I easily had the best spectator experience of my life (and left 5 minutes before the game ended.)

Medellín, Colombia...wow.

Thanks to my good friend Juan Lopez, I was connected to a local paisa from the city, and spent two days touring what must be one of the most beautiful and exciting places to live in the world. It is a valley city of 2.5 million people surrounded be very high green hills with a very modern public transportation system, excellent libraries, a fledgling enviro/vegetarian movement and the best climate I´ve experienced yet. Stella, the paisa, had no idea where to start, so she took me everywhere it seemed. While in a public transportation metrocable (swiss alps style cable car) being carried up and down the hills, hanging out with friends during la rumba (party, dance, etc.), walking many of the peatonales (big street only for pedestrians) and checking out some of the many parques, we had some really great conversations, the first of which was on fear. She thought I was very trusting to even meet with her, because she could be anyone, and rob me or even worse. Given my friend Juan´s sterling reputation, it didn´t even cross my mind. So, this convo turned into a discussion on fear, and because before I left the most common concern people mentioned was my traveling through Colombia, I think it´s a good subject broach now.

(you can see the metrocable cars on the left)

I recieved Stella´s e-mail telling me not to stay in the city center after I had already paid for what I thought was a great hotel, right in the city center across from a beautiful park (parque Bolivar). Well, the hotel was great, but after 11pm parque Bolivar was definitely a danger zone, and I witnessed a lot from my window. On Saturday night police set up a make shift prison in the middle of the park and at one point as a police officer yelled and ran to the other side of the park to stop a 1 v 1 street fight, about 10 people took advantage and escaped the make shift prison, with cops wearing fluorescent yellow vests giving chase. Then at 3am I´m woken up by a glass bottle breaking and someone yelling ¨me estan robando!¨ (they are robbing me). I look out the window right a cop enters the scene and people flee.

So yes, there is danger in Medellín, Colombia. But there is danger in Chicago too, and all big cities I imagine. I just happened to be staying at a very secure hotel in one of those ¨do not go here at night¨ places. And I´m glad I did. Stella thought I was too ´confiado.´ I thought it was a calculated risk. I was careful, everything was okay and I had a very interesting experience. But maybe I was lucky.

Fear. Stella was reluctant and skeptical about meeting up with me because of fear. For whatever reason, due to her genetic make up and/or the society that raised her, she was still thinking of dangers I was not. I´m not from Medellín and I didn´t grow up watching the news here. Who know´s what she has been exposed to. In El Salvador the news told me that gang member extorionists throw grenades on public buses. In Mexico the news told me that kidnappings happen in Mexico City. In Chicago the news told me that someone was shot to death in a bar that was a 7 minute walk from my apartment. All of these stories are tragic, and induce fear. But, how well do these stories represent reality, or, the experiences that most of us live in these places? And, how trustworthy are the sources that inform our fear? (Ask yourself: make shift prison in a park, really?) In other words, how rational is our fear?

Thinking about it, I´m really talking about a specific type of fear, a fear of people and place. This is a big reason for my trip, to discover different realities of people and place first hand. Fear can definitely get in the way of this objective.

Ultimately, if you want to be safe there are places you go, and places you don´t go. The trick is finding reliable information. However, most everyone would have told me not to go to the soccer game. It was a calculated risk. I minimized my danger by going with a local, wearing neutral colors, watching in the less crazy section and leaving early. I´d like to think of this as a compromise, because really I wanted to be in the crazy section and stay after the game to watch what ensued. Just another one of those dilemnas, a balancing act of interests. Everyone has their comfort level, and those with the most relaxed level risk the most, but likely experience the most as well.

Desde Popoyán,
Matt

The Gringo Fare

2010-02-04T04:49:00.000-08:00

The Casco Viejo section of Panama City is quite possibly my favorite place so far. Full of contrasts and modern ruins. A lot of money being put into this place to renovate the historic buildings, but as it is, many buildings are just shells...modern day ruins. Casco Viejo is still home to many locals who have yet to get bought out by developers. Even squatters must get bought out and go to court to finalize the deal. I liked being so close to families, and walking passed kids playing ball on the street, even though many did not seem to notice me.

My flight left at around 10pm on Tuesday, and one hour later on the very small plane I landed in Cartegena, Colombia. South America! It´s been a long time coming (Thanks Parreño Family!). I have had a poster of South America hung in every room of mine since late 2003. I have touched that poster with such affection on so many occasions....

Met a Canadian journalist and we took a cab from the airport to the historic area, surrounded by massive concrete walls built by the Spanish to ward off pirate attacks by the English. Now, more than 3 centuries later I rolled right in. The taxi driver ripped us off though, we later found out. Only about $1.50, or 3000 pesos, but it´s the dishonesty that kills me.

This leads me to the Gringo Fare commentary. Many of you have had the experience of paying the gringo price while traveling. I am totally okay with paying more than locals in a developing country, I look at it kind of like progressive taxing. BUT, paying the gringo price becomes difficult when you come across people who cross the lines of fairness and enter the nasty territory of greed and dishonesty. But then I think again to myself, ¨even though this is 10 times the local price, it`s only an extra $5¨. I guess it`s the principle. And if I fail to negotiate to a fair gringo fare, I leave myself vulnerable. But how does one find the fair gringo fare?

An example: I´m in Leon, Nicaragua and a women cackles at me ¨post card?¨. ¨Yes, actually that´s exactly what Im looking for. How did you know that? I do not deal with soothsayers.¨ Long story short, this women did not have the post card I was looking for, but left and came back 5 minutes later with the exact post card I was looking for. ¨20 cordobas ($1 dollar).¨ ¨What! This is a robbery¨. Horrible choice of words. She went on to explain that she´d only make 5 cords from the deal (25 cents) and that she is NOT a thief. Her anger mixed with embarassment told me that she was being honest. I was totally wrong on this one. I know that 10 cords would be a fair price, but was it worth it to take a stand for 50 cents? Ah....I apologized profusely and this bothered me for some time.

Perhaps I´m not explaining myself well here. Point being, I am willing to pay more....but it´s very hard to find the balance between just gringo price and me being totally ripped off. But even me being totally ripped off is usually not that much money and a person with much less means may be better able to provide for their family. This brings me to questions about the value of money, or the value of anything for that matter. Ultimately, I should pay for it what I think it´s worth. Maybe that´s the most honest route....but how do I do this? Integrating into a different cultural and economic context allows me to pay a lower price for just about everything here, but in paying this price am I perpetuating the unfairness I spoke of in the ´We drink their coffee´ blog? Even if I pay for everything what I would in the States, do I even agree with these values?

This is definitely a dilemna. I´m very happy to redistribute wealth down here, but I want the transaction to be honest. It feels like finding this ´honesty´is probably way more complex than I imagine.

I leave for Medellin today at 4pm. Overnight bus. Ay dios!

(p.s. Having big time camera problems, sorry no pictures)

En casa

2010-02-01T13:48:00.000-08:00

(My room in El Porvenir. My dog, la Pirata, on vacation.)

Back in El Porvenir I was talking with one of the teenagers who was an english student of mine back in the day, and somehow I wound up telling him that my ¨jaña¨ (girlfriend) is buddhist. To my surprise, he knew exactly what that meant and then went on to tell me about other religions that fascinated him. He learned this from a book his brother gave to him, and right before I left, he shows up with book in hand. I´m guessing he doesn´t have many books, and there he was with a huge smile on his face eagerly handing over the book. Honestly I was thinking about how much I wanted to read it, and so I graciously ripped it from his hands.

These random acts of giving and kindness have happened to me all over, but most frequently in Nicaragua. It has happened to me a lot in Nicaragua and it seems as though it´s just part of the culture. My second week in Nicaragua back in 2005 on a bus I was given a brand new book of poetry by Ruben Darío, national hero. Last time I visited in June of 08´I mentioned that I liked my friend Tello´s FSLN hat in El Porvenir. Right before I left, he had washed it and gave it to me. Chris and I were picking up a bunk bed of all things in Managua in 06´, and she complimented the clerk for his nice bracelet....he gave it to her. And so on. The trend seems to be, that if you express a liking of something material, often times it is given to you. Having so little and being very willing to give it to someone, to share and make that person happy, is just really special, and one of the many reasons why I love Nicaragua. So I share that with you. (Soy puro pinolero!)

So, where am I? Panama City! Figured out that I´ve now traveled for over 7.5 days on train and bus. Kiiiiind of taking a toll on me, as is the lack of diversity in diet. Still eating loads of eggs.

Quick re-cap of how I got here:

From El Porvenir I visited my friends at the Center for Development in Central America, based in Ciudad Sandino. It was SO great to reconnect with the amazing people who hosted me in Nicaragua back in 05'-06'. One of the newest members of the CDCA, Becca, has two beautiful children who I believe have US-Irish-Nicaraguan Citizenship, and at 4 years her oldest daughter already speaks better spanish than me. Very interesting people. My visit was too short, but I was able to make it to my old stomping grounds at the clinic in the barrio of Nueva Vida. I ran a small sports group with the local kids for about 90 minutes. In the picture above, we are just about to start another game of Big Lemur (fomer PODER collegues know this as the most popular game ever! Basically it´s running dodge ball. I left the clinic having delivered at least 10 back of the head shots).

Two longs days of travel from Managua to Panama City, but with beautiful scenary. Right before leaving Nicaragua, I was treated to a bag of cashews by the stranger sitting next to me....¨gracias y mucho gusto¨. On my way from San Jose, Costa Rica to the Panama border, I was chatting with a Costa Rican gentleman when he mentioned that Nicaragua is the way it is because of ¨militarismo¨. He continued saying that kids at the age of 10 in Nicaragua all know how to shoot AKs. This is obviously not true, and speaks to the unfortunate and totally unwarranted discrimination suffered by Nicas living in Costa Rica.

Panama City has been great so far. The architecture is definitely different, and where I´m staying in Casco Viejo, it almost has a New Orleans vibe. I´ve later found out that as opposed to the areas I´ve come from where the old world influences were dominantely Spanish, in Panama there is also a large French influence.

LASTLY, the spanish is VERY hard to understand. Also, some Irish people are very hard to understand. Yesterday I was in a small room full of Panamanians and Irish people, and understood about 50% of what was being said. I probably caught more of the spanish than english.

Tomorrow I leave for South America. Really tried to make the boat thing happen, but it´s just a bad time of the year. Seas are really bad so not many boats going out. SO, I´ll take a flight from Panama City to Cartagena, Colombia.

We drink their coffee

2010-01-28T21:12:00.000-08:00

The hike up was difficult, and the anxiety didn't help. I was really relieved to be greeted with very warm smiles by everyone in El Porvenir. I was treated better than family. I'm a gringo, and gringos recieve extra special treatment.

El Porvenir is a hillside coffee cooperative community where I lived and worked as a volunteer for six months from 2005-2006. About 300 people live there, and you can see El Porvenir and the hacienda in the background of the title picture of me holding the machete.

As great as it was to see a lot of old friends, I left El Porvenir unexpectedly sad and angry.

SO, I'm hanging out at the hacienda where a lot of people happen to be doing work that day. Most everyone working was sitting at a medium sized desk, gradually dumping out more coffee beans and by hand seperating the bad beans. This is part of the organic certification I'm told. As I'm thinking about how I'd last 15 minutes, I see a husky gentleman, Marlón, carrying a massive bag of coffee on his back. 200lbs. I couldn't believe it, and more bags kept on coming. He made the equivalent of $3 for around 6 hours of that. The people seperating the beans made out with $4.50 after a days work.

My closest friend in Nicaragua is a guy named Jairo. He was one of the bean seperaters, and he worked 11 hours that day. Under $5 for 11 hours of work. This is where our coffee comes from, and we're okay with these wages. Do we understand the origins of wealth? How money works? Why we make tens of thousands a year and they make hundreds? There is nothing natural about this! This was created, is unfair, and is sustained. Gas costs just as much here as it does in the US, but they make under $5 a day. Why are some costs the same across borders, and others not? Do these people really have less value than we do? Or were they just born within the wrong borders?

Thinking about this suddenly shook me. I had to leave the patio in the hacienda and head to the place where I sleep. It is a room filled with all of the comfortable cots with foam mattresses, and the nice wooden rocking chairs they bring out only when the gringo groups come to visit. They never sleep on those mattresses, they sleep on taut plastic.

In this room I began to write, and became pretty emotional. I look at Jairo and I see family. Because of this, naturally his situation angers me. Many people will think about Jairo and the billions of other poor people living across the world and think "it's not our problem." Maybe if we lived in isolation, but we are now interconnected so intimately across the globe. To say "it's not our problem" is to be dishonest, I believe.

I could very easily have been Jairo. You too, could very easily have been Jairo. Perhaps nothing will ever change until we not only become conscious of these people's existence, but see and feel that they are family. Then we'll become angry, and then we'll act.

The roots of their poverty have to do with historical, economic and political injustice. I don't understand it, and I definitely don't have the answers. But I'm on a quest to better figure this out, and hopefully be better able to help rectify these incredibly unfair situations. As I said, I believe their situation is not 'the way it is,' but was created and is sustained. Although we are not directly to blame, we are complicit! We drink their coffee!

Ultimately, these experiences inspire me: to think, read, converse and act in order to change these situations of horrible unfairness.

This blog post is definitely unfinished......I encourage you to write a comment arguing, reflecting, questioning, etc.....We need to think on these things and talk about them.

Made shampoo? Check!

2010-01-25T07:53:00.000-08:00

Apparently there has been some debate on whether or not I am still alive. I´m sure that good points were made on both sides, and about 36 hours ago both would have been right as I was in the midst of a really nasty battle with some tough parasites. Yes, it finally happened. However, I am very happy to report that I am still, in fact, alive. Just been further away from internet cafes.

Near La Libertad in El Salvador I stayed at a hostal at Sunzal Beach. I had been in cities up until Las Lisas, so it´s been nice to relax by the beach. It was also nice to connect with some other travelers for a bit, and I was very surprised to hear that some of them had been at the exact same hostal for over 3 months! Maybe this is not so rare, but it´s just way different than what I´m doing . Later I realized that many of the travelers were definitely traveling with a different, more ´getting away´ philosophy. No better or no worse, just different objectives. Howver, I started to feel like I was in Florida, and although I love Florida, I´m in Latin America and was very happy to head to San Miguel en route to El Alto del Aguacate to meet up with a friend. (This is a picture of the bus stop in San Miguel, where I left for Corinto. Many common things to see here....old school bus converted into public trasit, women in the market selling food, red hatchback that´s probably a taxi, panels of zinc nailed together for a makeshift roof, armed guards with assault rifles, advertisements for cellular phone minutes)

The friend: Six foot, 180 pound Marcos Gruen who runs the 40 in roughly 8 seconds (uphill in the campo!) and runs an even better shampoo business. Definitely was not expecting the shampoo business thing. Mark Gruen is the brother of a good friend, Eric Gruen, who I volunteered with back in 05-06 in Nicaragua. Mark and I quickly became friends and I only called him Eric once. He is a Peace Corps volunteer living in El Alto del Aguacate, a rural hillside community about a one hour trek upwards from the town of Corinto.

This was definitely the most immersed I´ve been into the local culture so far. Mark was a great host, and allowed me to shadow him during my two days of visit. Of the many projects he´s involved with, the one I really saw in action was the Shampoo project. In order to raise money for a school computer lab, he has initiated this project that uses local aloe plants (a long with some ingredients bought in San Salvador) to make Shampoo that is sold in Corinto. This isn´t just Mark´s project though, the students make it happen! To date they have made over 30 batches of this shampoo that is 90% organic (this % is questionable, Mark), and have raised over $3,000. Aside from installing a computer lab with at least 8 computers (I forgot to count), they have been able to pay for some needed improvements to the school building. Child labor? We hope not. Empowering these kids to improve their community, claro que si! Well done chavlos (kids)!

Here are two of the students while they clean the aloe plants before we slice them up (the aloe plants) and use the goo inside for the shampoo. We made a twenty gallon batch on Saturday and the end product looked like nickolodean slime. The girl on the right has a wise guy grin on her face, and she was definitely a sharp one. At one point, totally out of the blue, she asked Mark, ¨Marcos, cuantos años tiene¨....¨Pues, 26¨....she quickly quips ¨de no banarse!¨ jajajaja. Oh we all laughed SO hard!

Rough translation: ¨Mark how many years do you have¨ (in spanish thats how you ask age). ¨Um, 26¨. ¨Of not bathing yourself!¨ Lost in translation??? Dang it! Trust me it was hilarious.

I also want to mention that except for this project, every project Mark is involved with has come from community and addresses a need that comes from the community. Mark and I had incredible discussions on poverty, politics, hope, progress, religion and justice, and all of this stemmed from his question as we walked the hill from El Alto to Corinto: ¨So, this may sound cliche Matt......but, why development?¨ We agreed that this concept means many different things to many different people, and we also agreed that whatever it is, it must come directly from the community that is ´developing.´ This is very, very important as I think that any paternalistic form of development (´it worked for us, it will work for you´ OR ´be like us!´) runs the risk of cultural irrelevance and at worst, neo-colonialism.

The contrasts between this rural part of El Salvador and the rural part of Nicaragua that I know were pretty obvious. Mainly, it appears as though through remesas (money sent home from family/friends living abroad) are much more common in El Salvador. The homes I saw were made of concrete, plastered and the floors had tiles on them. Mark referred to these as ´remesa homes.´ These are really big upgrades from the thatched roof, wooden framed homes with dirt floors I knew in El Porvenir, Nicaragua. In general, judging from the bus system, infrastructure in general and even from the clothes people wear, El Salvador appears significantly wealthier than both Guatemala and Nicaragua. In terms of standard of living, it seemed very similar to what I remember in Costa Rica, however the big societal difference seems to be that El Salvador suffers from a huge problem with gangs and juvenille delinquency. I didn´t see any of this, but I also wasn´t in those parts of town, or really in town for that matter in El Salvador.

En fin, I had a really great time getting a glimpse of life in a rural area of El Salvador, and the life of an intrepid peace corps volunteer. Mark is an definitely an exceptional cultural ambassador for the United States. In the picture to the left, he is pretending to eat dried cow feces.

I leave you from Leon, Nicaragua. In one hour I depart to reunite with some old friends in the rural town of El Porvenir, Nicaragua. I´ll write again from Ciudad Sandino in a 2 or 3 days. Adios cheles!

The BIG one (two posts in one)

2010-01-20T08:59:00.000-08:00

(This is a picture of a picture found in a museum in Saltillo, Mexico. Presumably taken during semana santa, I love how the guy selling ice cream either refuses to give up his spot, couldn´t get out in time, or just doesn´t care.)

It has been really hard for me to get to an internet cafe over the past 4 days, and so now I have so much to talk about that I don´t know where to begin. I cannot promise that this will be short. No more promises.

After leaving Mexico I really wanted to post something on my impressions of the culture. Having barely seen five of the larger cities of the massive and incredibly diverse country, I felt like my voice would have some authority on the subject. Instead, I´ll just quickly jot down some nuggets:

Tradition
-Kids in Mexico get a second Christmas! It falls on Jan. 6 I believe, and it´s the celebration ¨Los Reyes Magos.¨ (The Three Kings) After the kids receive their toys, the adults eat a fruit cake type thing (rosca de reyes) and anyone who finds a small plastic baby jesus in their piece of fruitcake has to make some type of food for a fiesta in early February. I was given one of these plastic ´niño dios´s´ and now have to make tamales for one of you. (I hope you´re okay with mac and cheese).

-The fascinating history of Mexico has blown me away, and I can´t even begin to take on this topic.

Globalization and Globalism
-This was most interesting to me, as I did not expect to see a massive Sam´Club within my first 8 hours of being in Mexico. Nestle, Walmart, 7-Eleven, Coca-Cola (of course) Kellogs, Yoplait, Tang, Rubbermaid, Starbucks and the list goes on. Weird juxtaposition as I walked past a Radioshack next to a Dominoes in very colonial looking, cobble stoned streets Guanajuato. Now this is not necesarrily a bad thing, but alongside the brand names we´re familiar with, it does feel as though a very strong dose of consumerism and manufactured want is flooding a country that, although wealthier than most of Latin America, for the most part cannot afford it. Even for those who can afford it, it would be a shame to trade the spectacle and material for more imporant values.

National Issues
-Freedom of the press: The day after I left Saltillo, a journalist for their biggest newspaper was found dead in the middle of a street after having been tortured. I later read about this in all of the papers throughout my trip in Mexico, and then in Guatemala. Big problem, and one journalist mentioned that Mexico is the country with the second most amount of journalists who have been killed, behind Iraq. The murderers or this crime are said to be narcotraficos.

-Increase in prices on gasoline, electricity, mass transit, and especially the canasta basica (family food basket: rice, beans, tortillas, tomatoes, eggs, etc.). They say that the wealthy people call this an ´ajuste´ (adjustment) and the poor people call it an ´alza´ (a rise).

-Narcotrafico and security issues.

-Government transparency and impunity.

Political Culture
-The movie on Venezuela was great, and although obviously supportive of the Venezuelan government, it seems apparent to me that with the implementation of over 16,000 community counsels and after having 13 national votes in 10 years (in Venezuela), that we are in no place to condemn Venezuela as being a totalitarian state. It is hard to believe given that the news we recieve is constantly in opposition to Venezuela, but having been exposed to more than one perspective, it does seem to me that in general, Venezuelans are more democratically active than Americans. Anway, it was great to take part in a political discussion with many people from Mexico equally curious with what´s going on in Venezuela.

-I literally crossed the border into Mexico having a conversation with a 60 year old campesino on socialism. Although illiterate, this gentleman has many friends involved in the Zapatista movement, and was very articulate and compelling in advocating for his ideology.

This was a great way to end a great trip through Mexico, where I was greeted openly and warmly by everyone I met.

I entered Guatemala from the west at Ciudad Cuauhtemoc and immediately made my way to the beautiful city of Quetzaltenango, more commonly known as Xela. I spent four days in Guatemala, without a word of English. There were some foreigners in Xela, but in San Lucia Cotzulmalguapa and later in Las Lisas, I didn´t see any.

Notable in Xela was a conversation I had with an optimistic gentlmen named Luis who was originally from Xela, immigrated to Kansas for a while, then recently moved back to be with his family. Like in other cities in Guatemala, he told me, gangs and juvenille delinquency have become a big problem in Xela. However, his community took action! In the picture above, on the wall to the left is written ¨Vecindario organizado contra la delincuencia¨ or, community organized against delinquency. It was hope-inspiring to hear that his community organized and is apparently much more safe now.

On the much less traveled route down the pacific coast of Guatemala, I decided to spend the night in the town of Santa Lucia Cotzulmalguapa. For the first time on my trip, I did not feel safe.

One place to stay in the whole town, for $4 a night. The owner seemed friendly enough, and when I hurried back from dinner (in kind of a confident but awkward fast walk/skip), I noticed another gentleman sitting by the owner and his wife. I grabbed a plastic seat next to them, and as I was feebly trying to spark conversation and fiddling with my pocket FM radio, I realized that the new guy was nonchelantly holding a massive shotgun. He appeared shy up until then, but all of the sudden seemed menacing. SO, instead of a panic attack, I offered to buy them a round of beers....magic! Man am I glad I discovered this strategy. Not so much the beers, but the show of genoristy I think really loosened them up, and for the next 4 hours I had the best conversation yet, by far.

The shotgun was for protection. He was the security guard, and I then realized that even the bread stores in this town had shotgun wielding security guards. Now I don´t want to give you the impression that criminals roamed the streets, but this is what I saw, and it speaks to the potential dangers very present in the town. Anyway, after the owners wife served me some cake and two lollipops, they went on to tell me about why Guatemala is unable to develop (corruption and collusion between public officials and business, they believe), suppression via violence to all those who try to organize to demand their rights, the philosophy of living for every moment because life is so vulnerable in their town, stories of coyotes leaving immigrants en route to the US at his hostel, and about how happy they are to be exposed to the world via the visitors that pass through their hostel. Very interesting stories, but also very sad. Opposed to the optimism of Luis in Xela, these people said explicitly that they see no hope in anything getting better. Economic opportunity may be the most compelling factor causing people to make the dangerous trek to the US, but the lack of civic justice in some communities is probably just as compelling.

I woke up really early and made my way to Las Lisas. A short boat ride on the river and I arrived to what every Guatamelteco I talked said was a hot spot! Hot indeed, and just about totally vacant. Either way, the beach was beautiful and I was able to play soccer at night with some locals. I´ve found something universal across the Latin American countries where I play soccer: without fail they call me ´La Gran Esperanza Blanca,¨or, The Great White Hope.

Without much commotion, and after having eaten 4 chocolatey covered frozen bananas, I woke up at 4am in Las Lisas, crossed the river in darkness at 5am, and crossed the border into El Salvador at 6:30am. Below is a picture that the El Salvadorian customs agent just haaaaad to take.

So much more to talk about, but if you´ve made it this far, I thank you, and will save it for later. I´m in La Libertad, El Salvador and I miss you all!

Haiti

2010-01-16T15:52:00.000-08:00

I´m in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. I was reading the paper in Mexico when the earthquake had just hit, and they predicted that hundreds of people were killed. The next day I had to read the headline 3 times to make sure it really said ¨100 thousand¨. The show of solidarity and support in southern Mexico and now western Guatemala, two very poor places where the great majorities of their people live in poverty, has astonished and moved me. Below is an e-mail sent to me from fellow Rotary World Peace Fellows studying at Duke/UNC. Please read it and I hope that we can all help in some way.

Dear Friends and Supporters:

As the scale of suffering in Haiti comes to light, people around the world are coming together to respond. We feel a calling to act, but many of us are unsure of how best to do so.

Rotary Peace Fellows at the Duke-UNC Rotary Center for International Studies in Peace and Conflict Resolution would like to offer three brief recommendations to those wanting to contribute to relief efforts.

1. Donate money to a reputable organization. We have compiled a short list below of some that we feel comfortable recommending in addition to information about The Haiti Earthquake Relief Fund, established by The Rotary Foundation. Cash is a more effective immediate response than donations of clothing or supplies. Relief professionals are best placed to procure exactly what is needed, ensuring that responses are culturally appropriate and don't tax scarce resources in-country.

2. Use your voice to call for strong government responses. Many people are not in a position to offer much or any financial assistance, but all of us can tell our political representatives that we support our governments' commitment to significant and long term support for Haiti.

3. Remember that although Haiti deserves the attention it is receiving at present, there are always countless people suffering outside of the spotlight cast on the immediate aftermath of disaster. If you are making a donation to an international non-government organization or UN agency please consider allowing them to direct funds to where they are most needed, rather than earmarking your donation.

We thank you for your time and consideration, and join you in hope and prayer for Haiti.

The Rotary Peace Fellows of Duke University and the University of North Carolina - Chapel Hill

If you are interested in learning more, here are some well-reputed organisations that are involved in disaster relief efforts in Haiti:

People in the US can text ´Haiti´, 90999 to donate $10 to the red cross.

Into the green

2010-01-14T15:13:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone!

I´ve now left Oaxaca (top pictures) and am currently in San Cristobal de las Casas (bottom pictures), part of the southern state of Chiapas, Mexico. Some of you may have heard of San Cristobal when back in 94' (coinciding with the implementation of NAFTA) los Zapatistas took over the town, protesting for indigenous rights.

Not only has the environment become much greener since heading south from el D.F., but the indigenous culture and influence in Mexico has become way more apparent. In Oaxaca I was lucky to speak for a while with some ´Zapatecos´ and in San Cristobal with a women born in the indigenous town of San Juan Chamula, just outside of the city. To ineptly sum up the conversations: we laughed at the same things (mostly), one of the zapoteca women knew who Tiger Woods is and NOT Cristiano Ronaldo (for all of those who know this argument), and the younger generation, to me, seems to be moving away from closed tradition.

Notable moments:
1. Bypassing the 150 peso (around 13 dollars) tourist transport to the ruins at Monte Alban, I took a four peso bus that dropped me about 30 minutes away. The 30 minutes consisted of me walking up hills in a general direction and of course coming to maybe 5 forks. One time I took a left, walked 20 feet and heard a gentle but serious growl, turned around and 30 seconds later the ruins burst out in front of me. On the way down, I recruited two people to hike with me, and one guy -Hernan (the H is silent gueros!)- is in the picture above.

2. Vegetarian restaurants found in both Oaxaca and San Cristobal. Below you´ll see the best meal I´ve eaten since Chris made me her amazing Lasagne a la Florencia (never happended). It is zuccini stuffed with cheese. Que padre is right! Especially at under $3 total. To the side of the dish you see a newspaper. Good observation.

3. Foro Cultural Kinoki in San Cristobal. This tea shop/restaurant is also home to a small movie theatre that shows mostly socially and politically relevant films from around the world. Yesterday I watched a movie from Chad called ¨Daratt¨ in spanish subtitles. Tonight they have a special showing of a documentary on the political movement underway in Venezuela, with a debate to follow. Do they have these types of places in Chicago!? I am really amazed at the very apparent and strong political and intellectual culture of San Cristobal.

4. The Chapulin: a small cricket that is eaten roasted in Oaxaca. I ate one and it was incredibly salty. The aftertaste was exactly as you´d imagine: delicious! I hope insects don´t count as meat.

Although I´ve had some really great moments so far, perhaps my favorite time is sitting in a plaza, people watching, reading a newspaper and talking to strangers.

Texa Com (goodbye in Tsotsil),
Matt

El D.F.

2010-01-11T16:34:00.000-08:00

Mexico City is the scariest, most polluted and straight up offensive offensive city that I have ever seen! They were right!

Caiste! (You fell for it).

¨Oh, what a practical joker he is....always has been¨

El D.F. (Mexico City) is so massive that I only saw a tiny little spec of it, and in that spec I saw a lot of Chicago and New York, and other large cities.......at least in the subways (metro). The metro is always a great cultural experience, and I feel like el D.F. seems to actively foster this. The 25 cent fare was also notable, and the quiet, breezy trains were easy on the ears. I used the metro to get to the world famous ¨Museo de Antropologia¨ which is well southwest of the Centro Historico area (North side, where I hostalled). Amidst the many fascinating exhibits on pre-hispanic Mexico (e.g. Aztecs and Mayas, etc.), there was a really interesting exhibit on the evolving and globalising culture in present day D.F. To segue back to the the amazing public transit system, one section of the exhibit on social relations (read: massive social division and disconnect in el D.F.), in criticizing the lack of public funds allocated to mass transit, envisions the metro and other public spaces as ¨un lugar de encuentro, reconciliacion e integracion.¨ (Translation: a place of encounter, reconciliation and integration.) I could not be more in agreement.

Part of this is about having new, shared experiences with people from many different backgrounds. Whether in Oaxaca, Mexico (where I am now) or in Chicago, Minneapolis, Boston, St. Louis, Carol Stream, Houston, Nicaragua, wherever.....those new shared experiences with people are out there and waiting...in the subway, at the grocery store, mexican wrestling matches, museums, malls, the dentists waiting room, etc. From my very limited (but expanding) perspective, these conversations/experiences consitently teach me something, and always (99%) leave me more hopeful about humanity. They expand your family!

In that shared experience vein, el D.F. will probably be my most hedonistic leg in Mexico, as I explored the night life a bit (Ay dios!). Hung out with aussies and kiwis at the said mexican wrestling match (lucha libre), but most enjoyed my time getting to know a Chilean gentleman named Claudio. He´s recently discovered a new species of catfish in northern Chile (I know, we´ve all heard that one before) and I followed that story with mine on the invention of the `number 2`, the Imperial Indian Pale ale I brewed back in september. He was mildly impressed, and I´ll take that. I´ll be very excited to visit him in Santiago, Chile. That way, I´ll be able to confidently explore the non-touristic parts of it.

In short (like I said I would do....what happened to that idea!?), Mexico City was great but no doubt my perspective was very limited and of the heavily manicured part of the city. Either way, I did see a mexican wrestling match, and it was fun. yeeee!

Los Caminos de la Vida

2010-01-10T16:07:00.000-08:00

Sitting atop the panoramic lookout at the Pipilin statue, my large head moved from left to right, and slightly up and down overlooking the birthplace of the Mexican revolution against Spain: Guanajuato. I wonder, what is everyone else up here thinking about? Some of us see one overlaying form of beautiful colors.....the charming hillside colonial city as a whole. Maybe others are looking out and breaking this view apart into the smallest bits that we can, analyzing everything. I´m attempting to break this view up and not getting too far. The museums have given me some insight, but it´s still hard...¨Why streets that break out into crashing concentric half-circles? And, how did they widen these still skinny streets for cars? Why no green spaces!?¨ These questions are kind of interesting, but really they aren´t. Or are they? I´m thinking that as I travel, it would be perfect to be in the middle of these two mindsets.

On the bus to D.F. (Distrito Federal, o, Mexico City), ¨Los caminos de la vida¨ (roads of life..), one of my favorite songs plays on the radio. It fills me with a really good energy, and eventually makes me think again about the lookout in Guanajuato. Our seperate roads have somehow converged for a brief time in this beautiful place, from all over Mexico and the world. No doubt our experiences a long our seperate roads affected what we saw and thought as we looked out, and I´ll try to keep this in mind and hopefully view these worlds from as many perspectives as possible. Not just as ¨el güero¨ de Chicago.

I´ll blog on Mexico City tomorrow. Before I do, comment on your impression of Mexico City if you´ve never been there....

By the way, for those of you wondering what I´m wearing: all of my fleeces. Still cold!

La Batalla: Que padre!

2010-01-07T13:03:00.000-08:00

The trip from Chicago to Del Rio, TX was long, but very comfortable. Very reflective too, of course. I´ve decided to focus on traveling as humbly and silently as possible. I hope that this will enhance my senses a long the way.

I exited the amtrak train at Del Rio wearing my favorite travel shirt, ready for some Texas heat! Yeeeeooh! The temperature was a stern 33 degrees and wearing the majority of my clothes I walked across a long bridge to Ciudad Acuña.....Mexico.

They like me here in Mexico, I think. Well, everyone has been incredibly nice to me at least. A lot of ¨huevo¨ jokes though while I order food. Soon I´ll figure out the vegetarian thing here, and soon my Spanish will be good enough to reproach those puerile cooks. Honestly, I´ve eaten about 12 eggs in the last 48 hours.

Learning another language is, as Reina -proud Mother of four from Piedras Negras, and my busmate- put it, ¨una batalla!¨. A worthy and just ´batalla´ indeed. Was given an excellent tour of a very new and modern museum at the government Palacio in Saltillo central. Definitely didn´t catch everything my guide said (did, however, laugh at all the correct moments), but was so happy to soak in some history and be able to interact at a very personal level with a different culture. The history was awesome, but I think my favorite thing I learned from my guide was the phrase ´que padre!´. Rough translations would be ´rad´ or perhaps more modern day it would be ´bad ass.´ Most third grade teachers would say it translates to ´neat!,´ so I guess it depends on the crew with whom you run.... Point being, she used it after I told her I had just come in from Chicago. And I´m sitting there, in that momentary out of body, birds eye view moment totally not focused on the conversation anymore (I know that sounds familiar to a lot of you) and thinking to myself ¨que padre!!¨. Que padre to language. Seriously! That´s what I was thinking. Our ability to communicate just blows my mind, and when a new language finally allows one to have a genuine connection with a formerly inaccesible person, it is surreal and magical. It´s coming back!

Lastly, scattergories in Mexico is called ¨basta.´

The Route

2010-01-03T01:35:00.000-08:00

Above you will find a rough idea of my route from Chicago to Buenos Aires. Typically I would state here that 'I'm not an artist,' due to my work's offensive lack of aesthetic quality. However, I'm particularly proud of this piece. Notice the change in colors at random points of the route (very post-modern) and the droplets used for the boat trip. Thank you.

Now, because I need to get from point B (Chicago) to A (Buenos Aires) by March 1st, I have done some research to get an idea of how long the bus rides will take, and accordingly get an idea of how long I can stay where. This accounts for the reason why I have an itineraryish breakdown of where I'll probably be going:

Start: Chicago, United States
Del Rio, Texas
Ciudad Acuna, Mexico
Saltillo, Mexico
San Luis Potosi, Mexico
Guanajuato, Mexico
Ciudad de Mexico (D.F.), Mexico
Puebla, Mexico
Veracruz, Mexico
Villahermosa, Mexico
Palenque, Mexico
San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico
Quetzaltenago (Xela), Guatemala
Santa Lucia Cotzumalgapa, Guatemala
Chiquimulilla, Guatemala
La Costa del Balsamo, El Salvador
Somewhere a couple hours North of San Miguel with friend, El Salvador
Chinandega, Nicaragua
El Porvenir, Nicaragua
Ciudad Sandino, Nicaragua
Panama City, Panama
Islas de San Blas, Panama
Cartagena, Colombia
Medellin, Colombia
Cali, Colombia
Popayan, Colombia
Quito, Ecuador
Riobamba, Ecuador
Machala, Ecuador
From Ecuador down Peruvian Coast to Lima, Peru
From Lima further down coast then north east to La Paz
From La Paz either to Chile or through Northern Argentina to...
Finish: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Not quite sure what my trip past Peru will look like, but I should make it there with ~14 days left and I'll figure it out then.

Thanks to all of you who gave me suggestions for the route and have connected me to people living in these places.

I'm really, really tired now. I leave from Chicago Union Station in 9 hours.

Que Viva!

On the 'Fellow Traveler' title

2010-01-02T23:57:00.000-08:00

Fellow traveler - noun

1. A person who sympathizes with the beliefs of an organization or cooperates in its activities without maintaining formal membership in that particular group

2. A person who supports or sympathizes with a political party, especially the Communist party, but is not an enrolled member.

My explanation for the title:

Put simply, I am a Rotary World Peace FELLOW who lives to TRAVEL and will be doing a lot of it during this blog. With regards to the definitions above, I am not a member of Rotary but fundamentally agree with the objectives of Rotary International and the Rotary World Peace Fellowship (in short: to promote peace, goodwill and global understanding.) So that works very well for definition #1.

As for definition #2, I have not dedicated myself to any one political ideology but rather poked my curious head into as many as possible over the last few years. I'd like to think that I'm politically pluralist, perhaps a little bit of everything. We'll see how that holds after my time studying in BA. In summary, I am not a communist.

Now, because I feel like the term ‘Fellow Traveler’ has a negative connotation; with an optimistic attitude I’m hoping to give new life and positive meaning to this combination of words I really like. Likewise, I hope that during my journeys and blog posts I may reveal a humanizing, real and perhaps illuminating view into worlds with little, under-informed and/or undue negative meaning to us.

Lastly, perhaps the best reason for this title is that it signifies my hope for this to be a shared experience. Quite literally those of you whom I know are all always with me in some way because you have left your life lasting impressions on me, and now I share these parts of you that are in me with other people. SO, I hope that through your reflection and feedback, we may collectively continue to leave new impressions on each other, and continue to grow together as fellow travelers.

Happy new year! Trip route coming very soon…

Welcome!

2009-12-28T15:55:00.000-08:00

Disclaimer: This will be the longest blog post I write as I’ll try to do most in one paragraph. The first couple will be long to give the proper introduction.

Dear Family, Friends and strangers,

¡ Saludos Fellow Travelers! This blog will be an attempt to document in an entertaining, thought provoking and concise way my experiences with people and places in Latin America over the next 21 months. Here is a quick break down of where and what I’ll be doing as I write this blog:

Jan – Feb of 2010: 1 train, many buses and a boat from Chicago to Buenos Aires. (Map with route coming soon….)

March 2010 – June 2011: Graduate School at la Universidad del Salvador in Buenos Aires, Argentina to study for a Masters in International Relations as a Rotary World Peace Fellow. Three trimesters of fascinating classes will be followed by one trimester of intensive thesis production.

July 2011 – September 2011: Applied Field Experience (~internship) somewhere in the world (most likely still within Latin America).

For those of you wondering why I am not just taking a plane direct to Buenos Aires, or why I have chosen to go to graduate school in Argentina as opposed to the United States, I cannot truly explain this to you. The reasons must be lived and experienced firsthand to be understood. However, if you follow along perhaps my short blog posts will in some modest way shed light on the reasons for my profound value of travel and living abroad.

Before I really begin: Thank you Rotary International and District 7930 Rotarians! It is with immense appreciation that I thank you for the inspiring and inconceivably valuable opportunity that stands before me. Thank you so much for investing in people and in Peace.

And: Thank to my friends…all of you! Your humor, brilliance and kindness is my fuel!

Finally: THANK YOU to my family. I love you all so much and it has been such a gift to spend the last year in Chicago living so close to you. I would have been just a whiny, slightly above average soccer player without you. I love you and I’ll be back soon!

Longest post over.